《汉字解码学》43 “袍”是中国的传统服装 "Gown" is the traditional Chinese clothing.

《汉字解码学》43  “袍”是中国的传统服装。

袍   袍是形声字。衣为形符；包亦声亦义。《说文》注：“茧衣也。从衣,包声。”袍即茧衣，指在夹层中著丝絮之长衣。借指棉袍（唐代开始引进棉花种植，宋代普及）、长袍、旗袍、蟒袍、龙袍等。

袍 (名) robe; gown

《百度百科》资料：中国《诗经》、《国语》中早已出现袍的名称。在东周时期的墓葬品中，袍为直襟直统式，交领，右衽，长袖施缘，下摆长大，束腰带，与深衣有相似之处。《礼记》解释,袍有衬絮,絮分新纩、旧缊，“纩为襺（茧）、缊为袍。可见当时的袍是有衬絮的绵袍。大约自汉代开始，[纩]为用新的蚕丝作内夹层，[缊]是用旧的乱麻或者旧蚕丝作的内夹层。隋唐时期，袍服盛行。其中交领大袖直裰式袍服传入日本，促进了和服的发展。随着历史的演进，袍成为中华民族广为穿用的传统服装之一，至今在民间和东南亚地区仍有沿用。袍作为中华民族的传统服装之一，分为龙袍、官袍、民袍等。

①龙袍
皇帝专用的袍。又称龙衮。因袍上绣龙纹而得名。其特点是盘领、右衽、黄色。此外，龙袍还泛指古代帝王穿的龙章礼服。唐高祖武德年间令臣民不得僭服黄色，黄色的袍遂为王室专用之服，自此历代沿袭为制度。960年，赵匡胤“黄袍加身”，兵变称帝，于是龙袍别称黄袍。龙袍上的各种龙章图案，历代有所变化。龙数一般为9条：前后身各3条，左右肩各1条，襟里藏1条，正背各显5条，吻合帝位“九五之尊”。清代龙袍还绣“水脚”（下摆等部位有水浪山石图案），隐喻山河统一。

②官袍

文武官员用作公服、朝服的袍。以一定颜色或图案表明官位等级。东汉永平二年（公元59）开始将袍定制为朝服，以所佩印绶为主要官品标识。自此，官袍成为封建社会中的权位象征。武则天当政时颁命服绣袍，文官绣禽、武官绣兽，是补服的起源。宋代官袍袖子肥大，明确规定饰襕、佩绶、围鞓等。元代官袍多以罗为面料，并以花纹大小表示级别。明代洪武年间创立区别文武官员等的补子制度，称作补服；亲贵大臣袍服，按照品位还有斗牛服、飞鱼服、蟒衣（后称蟒袍）、麒麟袍等，分别刺绣相应的形状似龙的图案。明代官袍款式特点是在两侧袍衩处加幅称襬（摆）。清代官袍一般与马褂（即马蹄袖外褂）配套穿用；外穿而不配马褂的礼服袍必须临时装马蹄袖（俗称龙吞口）；作为行装的袍称行袍，其右侧襟裁短一尺以便乘骑，故又称缺襟袍。清室官员常服袍的款式为四开衩。蟒袍沿用至清代又称花衣，应用较广，规定繁琐，由服色、蟒数、纬帽上的顶珠花翎、外褂上的方圆补子等组成等级森严的制度。

③民袍

民间用于日常生活的袍。因制作简单，穿用方便，所以逐渐取代深衣，在民间普遍穿用。周代和秦汉士人、庶民的袍，受经济条件限制，衣料粗糙。唐代以来，随着封建社会的发展和民族服饰的交流，特别是元代蒙古袍服、清代满族袍服的传入，民袍在款式造型上有过长摆和短摆、交领和圆领、右衽和左衽、大袖和小袖及半袖等多种变化。当代旗袍和中国少数民族服装中的袍，正是民袍发展变化的结果。

43 "Gown" is the traditional Chinese clothing.

Robes are phonetic characters. Clothing for the character; package also sound meaning. "Said the text" Note: "cocoon clothing also. From the clothing, including sound." Robe that cocoon clothing, refers to the folder in the mezzanine of the long clothing. By means of cotton gowns (Tang introduced the introduction of cotton cultivation, popular Song), robes, cheongsam, Mangpao, robes and so on.
Gown (also: robe)

"Baidu Encyclopedia" information: China "Book of Songs", "Mandarin" has long been the name of the robe. In the Eastern Zhou period of the tomb of the goods, gown straight straight for the type, cross-collar, right 衽, long-sleeved Shi Yuan, hem up, waist belt, and dark clothing have similarities. "Book of Rites," explained that the robe has linings, floc sub-new, old Ji, "纩 as 襺 (cocoon), 缊 for the robe.Was visible at the time of the robe is a cotton-padded robe.From the Han Dynasty, ] For the use of new silk for the sandwich, [缊] is the old messy or old silk for the sandwich. Sui and Tang dynasties, gowns prevailed, in which large collar straight collar-style robe into Japan, promoting kimono Gown as one of the traditional costumes of the Chinese nation, is divided into robes, gowns, robes, People gowns and so on.
① robes
Emperor dedicated gown. Also known as Long Gun. Because the robe on the embroidered dragon named. It is characterized by plate collar, right 衽, yellow. In addition, the robes also refers to the ancient emperors wear dragon chapter dress. Tang Gaozu Takenori years so that subjects were not allowed to illegally wear yellow, yellow robe Sui for the royal family of dedicated service, since the ancient lineage for the system. 960 years, Zhao Kuangyin "yellow robe plus body", mutiny emperor, so robes called the yellow robe. Long robe on a variety of dragon pattern, history has changed. Long number is generally 9: before and after the body of the three, left and right shoulder of each one, lapel in possession of a, is the back of the five significant, consistent with the emperor "Ninth Five-Year respect." Qing Dynasty robes also embroidered "water feet" (hem and other parts of the water waves stone pattern), metaphor of mountains and rivers.
② official robe
Civil and military officials for the public service, dress robes. To a certain color or pattern that official rank. The Eastern Han Dynasty Yongping two years (AD 59) began to dress for the dress, with the printed ribbon as the main official identification. Since then, the official robe became a symbol of power in feudal society. Wu Zetian life when ordered to serve embroidered gown, embroidered aviary officials, military officials embroidered beast, is the origin of complement service. The Song Dynasty official robe sleeves hypertrophy, clearly stipulates the ornaments, Pei Shou, Wai and so on. Yuan Dynasty official robes to Luo for the fabric, and the pattern size that level. In the Ming Dynasty Hongwu years to create distinction between civil and military officials and other sub-system, known as the supplementary service; pro-expensive minister robes, in accordance with the quality of bullfighting clothes, flying fish clothes, python clothing (later called Mangpao), Kirin gowns, respectively embroidery corresponding Shaped like a dragon pattern. Ming Dynasty style is characterized by official robe on both sides of the increase in pawing said pendulum (swing). Outer wear and dress jacket gown must be temporarily installed horseshoe sleeves (commonly known as the dragon swallow mouth); as a line of gowns, said the robe, the right side of the lapel (the right hand side of the robe) Cut a foot in order to ride, it is also known as the lack of lapel gown. The official style of the chamber-dressing officer is four-line slits. Mangpao used to the Qing Dynasty, also known as Huayi, wider application, the provisions of cumbersome, by the service color, the number of pythons, wove on the top beads Zhu Ling, outer jacket on the radius of the composition of sub-sub-level system.
③ people gown
Folk for the daily life of the gown. Because of simple production, easy to wear, so gradually replace the dark clothing, in the civilian general wear. Zhou Dynasty and the Qin and Han scholars, the people of the gown, by the economic conditions, clothing rough. Since the Tang Dynasty, with the development of the feudal society and the exchange of national costumes, especially the Mongolian robe of the Yuan Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty Manchu robe of the introduction, the style of people in the style of a long swing and short swing, Round neck, right 衽 and left 衽, big sleeves and small sleeves and short sleeves and other changes. Contemporary gowns and gowns in Chinese ethnic clothing, it is the result of the development and change of the gowns.